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PostSubject: Break problem   Sun Sep 26, 2010 2:00 pm

Break warning light comes on when i use the breaks. I adjusted the breaks, topped fluid, and cleaned all break parts. Is the light coming on due to old shoes or some thing else?
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:30 pm

Emergency brake is probably on. Or the wire that goes to it is loose and/or grounding against metal making the light come on. (had that happen on the Super a couple years back).
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PostSubject: dont think so   Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:48 pm

I only happens when I apply the breaks. I also checked for leaks due to I am losing some fluid but don't know where.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:58 pm

Could be leaking through the boot on the master cylinder onto the floor on the inside of the car. The boot or floor around the pedals will be wet. Also, check the brake line that runs on the inside of the car on the left side of the tunnel, My 70 Street Bug had a leak there, that I didn't find until all the carpet was removed.

Another scenario, my 74 Super had a misaligned master cylinder, which was causing the brake lights to be on all the time, press on the pedal, they would go off until the pedal was depressed further, then they would work fine. I don't recall for sure, but the brake indicator light might have been on when that was happening. A couple days after I noticed it happening, the master cylinder went out, and I had no brakes. Replaced it, and no more issues.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Sun Sep 26, 2010 11:03 pm

Also on the leak subject, check the lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinder, if they have a small leak, it might not be noticable, but if you feel the lines for wetness you can be pretty sure.

Otherwise check all the fittings and wheel cylinders.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:53 am

I will check the lines but I do not have a puller to get to the shoes and I know they are worn. I think the rears are not working to full stopping power. The fronts lock when backing up and breaking.
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PostSubject: Improper balance   Mon Sep 27, 2010 1:46 pm

You may have an imbalance in your master cylinder after you fix other issues. Bleed you brakes should make your master cylinder happy. I read it someplace last year when I was upgrading my master cylinder from single to dual and only had one brake light switch.

David
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 2:01 pm

Thanks,
That would explain why the rears do not feel like they are working and the light. Now only if I had a puller to check the break shoe life....
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:37 pm

Am I missing something? Why do you need a puller? You should only need a 36mm socket to take off the castle nuts... leave the tire on and jiggle the tire back and forth till the drum pops off. That is how I always do it.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:43 pm

Agree^^
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:45 pm

Admin wrote:
You should only need a 36mm socket to take off the castle nuts...

You will also need some leverage if they are rusted on. Use an Impact gun first. If that doesn't work, use a breaker bar and a piece of steel tubing for leverage.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:31 pm

ok, the tech manual said I needed a puller but I will try that tomorrow. Thanks.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:50 am

It worked after a hard time getting axle nut loose. The rear breaks are ok and no leaks, just dirty. so the weak rear breaks and light on must be in the master.
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PostSubject: Brake issue   Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:05 pm

If nothing is leaking bleed your brakes. All of them in the correct order. We do Passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, pass front. You should double check me but I believe it is the correct order. Double check your fluid level when you are bleeding. If the brake fluid is brownish that comes out of the wheel cylinder keep on bleeding until it clears up. You want it to look like the new stuff you are putting in.

Good luck it is worth the time you spend on this job. You pedal will love you.

David
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:25 pm

yup will do. This my be my first Bug but far from my first car and I also am certified graduate of UTI in '85. =)
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:14 pm

that will have to be one I have to look up type 4.. I always do passanger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I was always taught to go from furthest away from master cylinder and work your way up.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:15 pm

Admin wrote:
that will have to be one I have to look up type 4.. I always do passanger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I was always taught to go from furthest away from master cylinder and work your way up.

This is the way I do it as well.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:18 pm

Ya I thought so too.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:35 pm

ON ALL THE OLD MANUAL BRAKE SYSTEMS THAT IS CORRECT.

FARTHEST AWAY FROM THE RESIVOR WORKING YOUR WAY CLOSER AND CLOSER

RIGHT REAR (PASSENGER)
LEFT REAR (DRIVER)
RIGHT FRONT (PASSENGER)
LEFT FRONT (DRIVER)

ITS WHEN YOU GET INTO SOMETIMES POWER BRAKES BUT MAINLY ABS SYSTEMS THEN YOU BETTER DOUBLE CHECK AND MAKE SURE OF YOUR BLEEDING PROCEEDURE.
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PostSubject: we were all wrong!   Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:04 pm

According to VW Service Manual 1970-1979 all models by Bentley Publishers
the correct brake bleeding order is:
Right front
Left front
Right rear
Left rear
Razz
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:32 pm

Shocked What? That really doesn't make sense. Even in new cars I bleed the furthest from the M/C first.
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PostSubject: Re: Break problem   Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:22 pm

Hoses.
Check/replace the hoses. Most often overlooked. they only have a 10 year service life maximum.
Old, weak hoses will not let force the fluid back.
This will cause the brakes to seem to lock in reverse and also cause the light to come on. The hoses expand when they're old and use more fluid, tricking the sensor into thinking the fluid is low.

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